Friday, August 1, 2025

Sewing Tutorial: Reversible Tote Bag

This tote bag is a great way to show off contrasting fabrics, and, at around the size of a grocery bag, a convenient carry-all.

SUPPLIES

2/3-1 yard each contrasting fabrics (I used cotton quilting fabric)
2/3 yard batting (optional if you want a thinner bag, or have thicker fabric)
Threads matching your fabrics
Cutting tools


DIRECTIONS

Cut the fabric and batting:
-15x33 inch rectangle: one of both fabrics, one of batting
-7x12 inch rectangle: one of both fabrics
-3x15 inch strips: two of each fabrics, two of batting (you could skip these for a narrower bag)
-3x100 inch strip: two of each fabric (that is; sew together a few strips)


You should have two large rectangles, two small rectangles, four small strips, and two long strips, in contrasting fabrics; and one large rectangle plus two strips in batting. For directional fabric, cut the fabric with the pattern running the same way on the long sides.

Fold the two small rectangles in half right sides together and sew the smaller (seven-inch) sides together--to themselves, not to each other. The two won't be connected. Turn right sides out. Move the seam just a bit to one side and iron a crease opposite it. These will become pockets with the seam hidden along the bottom edge.


The long strips are the handle. Check them against each other to be sure they're the same length. Fold in half lengthwise and iron to make a crease. Unfold and line the edges up along that crease; iron again. Repeat along the length of both strips--this hides the raw edges in the middle.


Lay one large rectangle of fabric on top of the large rectangle of batting. Line up the contrasting pocket three inches from the shorter edge, centered. Sew on with contrasting thread: in this example, black rectangle, red pocket, and black thread.


For the handle, lay the long strip three inches from the long edges of the rectangle (the raw edges that are folded to the middle should be facing the rectangle). Start the narrow end on what will the bottom of the bag (16.5 inches from shorter edges). Pin the handle so it loops around the entire rectangle as shown.


Overlap the narrow edges about an inch so you can hide the raw edges. Using contrasting thread, sew only the parts of the handle that are on the rectangle, stopping about an inch from the edges. Repeat for the other side of the bag.


Center the 3x15 inch strips in the middle of the long edges of the rectangle and sew them on. Repeat for the other side.

Sew the long edges together, making a bag shape. Repeat for the other side. You now have two inside-out bag shapes, one with batting. 


Put one inside the other, right sides together with handles tucked inside, and sew most of what will the top of the bag, leaving room for turning. You can choose whether you'd prefer the pockets to be opposite sides of the bag or back-to-back with each other. Be careful not to sew over the handles. 


Turn the bag right sides out. Top stitch along the top of the bag, again being careful to not catch the handles. Use one of your thread colors in the bobbin and the other in your needle thread, so that threads either match the fabrics or contrast, as desired.

Now finish sewing the handles. Begin where you left off when you attached them to the larger rectangles, using contrasting thread in the bobbin and the needle thread, and continue around the handle. 


To keep the layers of the bag together, stitch along the seams you used to attach the 3x15 strips to the large rectangle--either on a sewing machine or by hand, whichever is easier. (For a narrow bag, just sew a straight line at that middle point.)


Trim the loose threads, and you're done!

Sunday, June 1, 2025

Sewing Tutorial: Omma's Seat Belt Cushion

Sometimes, no matter how you position them, seatbelts rub up against your neck or shoulder the wrong way. For me, it's the ones at work (I drive school buses); for my cousin, it hits her chemo port. When I found out my cousin had cancer, I wanted to do SOMETHING to help, and a dear friend told me that her mom had used a small pillow to protect her port from the rubbing of the seatbelt. Perfect; a quick project to make things more comfortable. This project is named for my friend's mom.

In this example, the side with the hearts goes against the area you want to protect
SUPPLIES
4 charm squares
Velcro: about half an inch by an inch and a half
Polyfil
I think it took longer for me to pick fabric than make the project
DIRECTIONS
Sew the Velcro on your strap charm squares, about an inch and a half from one edge (from here on referred to as "the top"), and centered between the two sides. Repeat for the other strap.
Fold the strap charm squares right side together. so that the two edges are touching, and sew along the edges (i.e.; NOT the top or bottom). Repeat for the other strap.

Now, move that seam you just sewed so that it's centered. The Velcro should be laying flat opposite that seam. Sew the top. Repeat for the other strap.


See that seam from the last step, now in centered in the middle?
Turn both strap pieces right side out. 
Now you're going to layer all four pieces of fabric together. Lay one pillow charm square right side up. Attach the Velcro pieces to each other, and lay over the center of the pillow charm square (it doesn't matter which side is up for the strap). Lay your second pillow charm square right down, matching its edges with the first pillow charm square.
It'd be smart to pin the layers, but I like to live dangerously
Sew around the perimeter, leaving a space for turning and stuffing. The strap pieces will stick out a bit from the edges; this is fine.


Trim the excess fabric, turn right side out, and stuff loosely.


Top stitch around the pillow charm squares to close the hole and give it a nice finished look.
And you're done!